BREEDING AIMS AND VALUES
It can be a bit of a minefield searching for the right rescue or breeder for you, so I hope this section provides some information on my ethics and why I do things the way I do. If you have any questions, please get in touch!
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I breed for the benefit of the rat fancy and for fellow rat society/club members. This means that if another breeder would like kittens from me, they will take priority if I have suitable kittens. The improvement of pet rats nationally is at the heart of my core values, so if I don't help other breeders where I can, then I'm not meeting this aim! I will only home breeding rats to NFRS/another rat club members as membership demonstrates an investment into the fancy.
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I breed for health. I breed my does 0-2 times at ~6mos and ~1yo, with up to 4 does paired at once, and I do a variety of pairings where possible. This offers me resilience to any health issues that crop up as I could backtrack down the line and go in a different direction if needed. It also reduces my reliance on individual rats. I won't keep kittens who are small/a bit behind (poor competitors at the milk bar), or sneezy/sensitive to change. If an issue crops up in a breeding rat, I investigate the issue and, if it is genetic or has a genetic component, I will minimise/remove the influence of that rat in my line.
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I breed for longevity and stamina. I monitor the longevity of my rats, breed from the longest-lived, and aim for my rats to live for as long as possible while also being healthy and fit. As time goes on, I'd like to aim for lines that live on average towards 3 years old. Good stamina (fitness over time) allows the rats to do rat things and live a good quality of life for as long as possible.
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I breed for pets, and my rats are socialised. The majority of my kittens go to pet homes, and I'm proud to provide people with their new family members. Whether it be at my home, on the show bench, or in their new home, I want my rats to be confident and fun to be around. Socialisation allows me to get to know kittens as individuals and match them to a suitable home. Kittens have individual sofa cuddles, group playpen time (sometimes with mum), and cuddles/play time at the cage door. I sometimes play a compilation of household/school noises and other YouTube videos.
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I breed for type. I want my rats to be built to do rat things and for as long as possible. I'm breeding for a good head, eyes and ears, good length of body and tail with good muscle tone, a rump that isn't chopped, and good size. Poor conformation/type can lead to health issues, so it's important to me!
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I breed for exhibition. Exhibition provides me with a second opinion on my rats (NFRS shows provide critiques for every entrant), and helps me to showcase my rats for others to see in person.
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LINE AIMS
MARTENS
My marten line began with Ch Hyjal Kiki's Delivery Service (marten) and Rivendell Federer (agouti). Martens have historically had issues with muscle tone, so this is why I began the line with an outcross to a well-muscled buck and I continue to focus on muscle tone. I am ultimately aiming for top-eared martens with good size, stamina and muscle tone, along with an easygoing, affectionate, adventurous and goofy temperament. Agouti, silver agouti and black rats may also be available through this line. Dumbos and roans may occur.
NFRS STANDARD FOR MARTEN: Body colour mid-grey with light heathering, with no suggestion of
brown or blue tones. Fur on the face to be lighter on the whisker bed, over the eyes and
behind the ears. Belly colour a slightly paler shade of grey than the top. Foot colour to match
top. Eyes pink or black. Faults: rusty patches, white toes or patches, darker points on the nose,
tail root or feet.
MARTEN GENETICS: aa cmcm (non-agouti with two copies of the marten gene at the c-locus).
Source: NFRS Varieties Standards
BADGERS
My badger line began with Beltane Essa (RDA badger) & Beltane Impa (RDA variegated), and Halcyon Pride and Halcyon City of Blinding Lights (agoutis). I am aiming for cinnamon badgers in top ear with good type, correct-ish markings and a playful and confident temperament. As there are more loci involved, a wider variety of colours may be available depending on pairings. These are listed below. Marked rats have a mind of their own, so not all of the rats produced will have these exact markings - Berkshire and variegated may also occur. Dumbo and dwarf also run in this line. I am actively breeding away from dwarf.
NFRS STANDARD FOR BADGER: As much of the underside of the rat as possible to be white, the white not to extend up the sides of the body. Back feet to be white to the ankle, forelegs to be white to the elbow. Tail to be white to half its length. The body colour shall conform to a recognised colour variety. Wedge-shaped symmetrical blaze of white starting at the nose and extending up the face to the forehead. The blaze covers the whisker bed and tapers to a fine point midway between the eyes and the ears. Markings not to extend onto the cheeks or the eyes.
BADGER GENETICS: Loads of possibilities. Common types are Hh, HH^re, or HH^e (standard Berkshires) or similar plus modifiers.
Black - aa
Agouti - A-
Russian Blue - aa rbrb
Russian Blue Agouti - A- rbrb
Mink - aa mm
Cinnamon - A- mm
Russian Dove - aa rbrb mm
Russian Dove Agouti - A- rbrb mm
Source: NFRS Varieties Standards
